the fork I made did not work out.. as well as the green frame.. The old Paramount was fractured beyond repair.. I guess I wore that one out.. I can salvage the rear drops to use for something else... Gonna roll my own frame. It took a while.. three years.. to know what I want. the Schwinn pictured is close but not exactly right for me. I am a critic.. my own worst... Just trying to get it proper. Then It will be the better mousetrap!
But not the better wheel...
Sail on.. C
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Friday, November 5, 2010
where have I been?
Dear Penfield,
Life happens brother.. and it can become all that is.. However.. no matter what Winter happens!
so here is the afore mentioned Jack Frosty. I thought about building a full on custom frame for winter duty here in Chicago. I designed and noodled over this and that but came to the conclusion that a custom fancy ride was not needed. Rather... back to the basics that inspired me through luck and need. The frame is a 70's vintage fillet brazed schwinn sports tourer.. tough as nails and baby blue in color!! SWEET
The 'need' was a frame that was heavy and one size too small. I did not know this until after three seasons of snow ice and the long cold dark.. I did not appreciate the 'one size too small' until the black ice happened.. On more than a few occations spreading my kickers out to skid the slick pavement came in handy. The problem was braking and lighting. So... for power to the lights (stern and aft) a schmidt dynamo hub... braking came in the same package.. disk!! Gonna roll a Hope hydro system. Mechanical types fail in this salty environment. Cars use 'em so why not me as well???
I ride fixed wheel in the winter. A very low gearing. Gives absolute control on both sides of the pedals. The next key bit was carbide studded tires..Plastic fenders ( NOT fancy aluminum) and cruiser bars for stability and a more 'upright' position. I say upright in quotes because of the frame being one size too small the saddle is still high for good leg stroke and cranking power. The Nitto 'Dove' bars however allow for a comfy reach and position similar to my Hunter roady. good for trans season fit and feel..
Whats new is a custom fork. somthing that could not be found anywhere.. 1" threaded steerer ( at short length) + dynamo disk compatable ( lawer lips and wide enough)+ fenders...
so.. this is the start.. made the crown, tips, caliper tab and mounting fixture. Thanks Anvil and Paragon. Not alot of money here but I do have material and machines... You get the credit here.. I did NOT create these fine bits and tools.. they did.. Buy them!! Made in the U.S. and fine. I am a freak in a unique position to make for myself. so I did.. the crown and tips however are of my own.. will see how they work out.. Hey!! its my own body on the line here!! I would not ask any one else to try before I did myself..
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Jack Frosty
My new Chicago winter ride! and that means ready for ANYTHING the sky,lake and planitary orbit/axial tilt can muster.
The first drawing is of the overall design. You will notice a Paragon machine works sliding drop at the rear of the SS/CS's. this was an excersize in machining but really not useable. Reason is that there is no reason to use unless I plan to run rear disk brakes... and for this one.. no. Gonna be fixed with a really low gear ratio.. something like 32/18 front/rear cog. The second image is the fillet braze forward drop I designed for the task.
The slider design+ crown weighs in at 15 oz.. almost a pound. I also plan to use a SON28 disk brake friendly dyno hub= 1.5 lbs. all by itself.
Sooo, thats 2.5lbs of frame weight before I even grab a tube for the front triangle. The front tri will be of .028" wall strait gauge Cro Mo hand bent by my buddy Steve. The rear triangle is of deda 's' bend cs's and telescopic .625"/.5" strait gauge tube in wishbone shape.
About incorperating the SON28 hub.. the fork blades nest in a custom crown cut by yours truly.. see previous posts....
25.4mm x .9/1.3mm round blades. strait to hub. running a front and rear light powered off the dyno. Both have capacitor powered stand light power.
check 'em out
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/index.html
Thats all for now... Yo.
CWN
The first drawing is of the overall design. You will notice a Paragon machine works sliding drop at the rear of the SS/CS's. this was an excersize in machining but really not useable. Reason is that there is no reason to use unless I plan to run rear disk brakes... and for this one.. no. Gonna be fixed with a really low gear ratio.. something like 32/18 front/rear cog. The second image is the fillet braze forward drop I designed for the task.
The slider design+ crown weighs in at 15 oz.. almost a pound. I also plan to use a SON28 disk brake friendly dyno hub= 1.5 lbs. all by itself.
Sooo, thats 2.5lbs of frame weight before I even grab a tube for the front triangle. The front tri will be of .028" wall strait gauge Cro Mo hand bent by my buddy Steve. The rear triangle is of deda 's' bend cs's and telescopic .625"/.5" strait gauge tube in wishbone shape.
About incorperating the SON28 hub.. the fork blades nest in a custom crown cut by yours truly.. see previous posts....
25.4mm x .9/1.3mm round blades. strait to hub. running a front and rear light powered off the dyno. Both have capacitor powered stand light power.
check 'em out
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/index.html
Thats all for now... Yo.
CWN
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